3/24/2024 0 Comments Cost skim coat walls![]() ![]() The last guy I subbed out came with tape that he put in water and put it on the wall, and he was highly recommended. I just find it is very hard to find that detailed workmanship. I hope you guys understand what I am saying and not trying to bash anyone. But I have even told subs that I will pay more per square foot or hourly to take that extra step. Sad thing is in todays market it is always just a job. By contrast, the average cost to replace drywall ranges from 1.50 to 3 per square foot for. If you do that work yourself, youll lower this cost. The guy that retired was a old school taper and instilled in me to do it right. When it comes to the cost, skim coating typically ranges from 1.10 to 1.30 per square foot to complete, with most of the cost coming from the tedious work and labor involved in the process. I just can't stand looking at someones wall and seeing air pockets or sand marks. Now don't get me wrong, for the most part the subs were great, but for a good portion of my clients, well, they want perfection I guess you could say. I have tried at least ten different companies in the area and there was only one guy that was as detailed, sadly he has retired. I know it sounds crazy, but I like the detailed finished. When I do a remodel with new walls I do three finish coats, prime and then detail. I want to sub it out but the times I have I was not happy with the results. ![]() My Brother and I use to use all Durabond 20 in the brown bags as our base coat put about a 1/8" thick then shave down the high spots, then we would hand sand to a smooth finish, as time went by we moved to 90 that way we could mix a whole bag of 90 in a 5, we would mix so it's like soft serve ice cream, then we would use a textured roller skin since it holds the mud better, then I would use a 14" knife and smooth it out, we would let it dry up then shave it down, then we take topping compound roll it on then I would use a 14" trowel and smooth this out then let it sit over night and then the next day we would come in set up our dust collector and set up ladders and planks around the room to do the ceiling and then sand everything using Dewalt palm sanders with 80 grit sandpaper, I have all kinds of pictures of this on my site, I can even do Crown mouldings with this stuff.Trouble is that I am the contractor, I have always done my own drywall. I have done skim coating of ceilings and walls for 25 years now, I have done hundreds of houses this way, A guy I use to work for calls me the Durabond King. I hope this helps and it adds some value or ease to your jobs Works much better than the metal knockdown blades. ONE more thing, when doing brocade or knockdown, Ames tools sells a plexiglass knockdown blade, and it works great! when I was in Texas, I did a bunch of knockdown, and a guy told me about them. I never had much luck with a squeege, and I usually am working by myself on that type of job so maybe it is better with two, (the same with rolling it on with a roller first) because if you don't lay it off fast enough it will dry on you. Each job is different, but I like doing it. Then you take a high wattage lightbulb and go over every inch. On that, if it really must be SMOOTH, I take a sanding sponge, (fine) and very, very lightly, use a circular motion and sand. staple the mesh on and it can take 3 coats to really make it "sweet". I don't sand much! The wide fiberglass mesh is good when going over plaster walls. I like skimming walls! I usually put the mud on with a 10" knife, and "lay it off" with a 14" trowel, then I skim that with a 12' knife. Hi, I read the post, and I thought I would add my "2 cents". I still chuckle when our tapers (newly-hired guys) try to slip something (crappy work) by me on a project at the drywall stage, because they think I "need them" in order to get the work done. ![]() I am still glad that it is the first skill I learned in the trades, as I consider it the most difficult, patience-racking, and advantageous skill for the line of work I am in. It is not something that you will pick-up" from doing "alot" of "drywall". The thing that you (bujaly) need to realize, is that this is something that was learned from about 5+ years of doing taping/coating/drywall fulltime (when I started off in the business). However, give me a "new" knife, that isn't shaped that way, and, there are going to be lines and edges. I can do very smooth and even, compound skim-coating with this knife, and leave virtually no ridges. That made me realize that I am half-decent at it. (Filing, if knicks developed).įWIW: I didn't think much of my taping skills/coating skills, till about 8 years ago, when a very old timer (retired) paid me a compliment, while we were both on a volunteer project. The one I still use, when I have to, is slightly curved or leveled on the edges. I don't do much coating and taping now-a-days. ![]()
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